Cheap Locksmith FAQ: Your Questions Answered

It depends on the service. Emergency lockouts, key duplication, and standard rekeying are safe to price-shop. For deadbolt installations, master key systems, and smart lock setup, a rock-bottom price almost always signals inferior hardware or limited experience. The key question for any installation job is not the labor price — it is what hardware grade the locksmith is installing.

In many states, yes. California requires a BSIS locksmith license (6-digit number, format LCO XXXXX). Texas requires licensing through the DPS. Other states with licensing requirements include Illinois, New Jersey, North Carolina, Oklahoma, Virginia, Washington, Oregon, Alabama, Connecticut, Louisiana, Maryland, Nebraska, Nevada, and Tennessee. In unlicensed states, verify insurance and BBB standing instead.

No. A $15 locksmith ad is almost always bait-and-switch pricing. No locksmith can profitably complete a service call for $15 — that price exists only to get a technician to your door. On arrival, "complications" are cited and the price inflates to $200-$400. The FTC has documented this pattern extensively. Any ad price under $65 for a residential lockout should be treated with skepticism.

National medians for 2026: Emergency residential lockout $75-$150. Emergency car lockout $65-$120. Rekeying $50-$100 per lock. Deadbolt replacement (Grade 1 hardware) $150-$350. Smart lock installation (labor) $120-$250. Master key system (5 locks) $500-$1,200. After-hours and weekend add $25-$75 to most quotes.

Five key red flags: (1) Advertised price of $15-$35 that inflates to $300+ on arrival. (2) No verifiable physical business address or license number. (3) Arrives in an unmarked personal vehicle with no uniform or company ID. (4) Immediately drills your lock without attempting to pick it. (5) Demands cash only and refuses to provide a written estimate before work begins. Walking away before they start is always an option — you are not obligated to pay for work not yet done.

ANSI/BHMA grades rate residential locks on security and durability. Grade 1 handles 250,000 open/close cycles and withstands 10 hits from a 75-lb weight. Grade 2 handles 150,000 cycles. Grade 3 handles 100,000 cycles with minimal impact resistance. Always specify Grade 1 hardware by brand/model (Schlage B60N, Kwikset 980) for exterior doors. Many cheap locksmiths install Grade 3 while billing for Grade 1.

Yes, with a rekeying kit (available for $15-$30 at hardware stores) and about 30 minutes per lock for basic pin-tumbler deadbolts. Kwikset SmartKey locks rekey with a tool included in the box — no disassembly required. For standard residential deadbolts, DIY rekeying is entirely reasonable for anyone comfortable with basic hardware tasks. For high-security locks or unfamiliar hardware, hiring a locksmith avoids risk of incorrect reassembly.

Tipping a locksmith is not standard or expected. Locksmiths are typically self-employed or paid commission-based wages — their rate is built into the service price. If a locksmith goes above and beyond (arrived faster than promised, waived a service fee, helped beyond the call of duty), a tip of $5-$20 is a kind gesture but never obligatory.

For non-emergency work: get 2-3 phone quotes before booking. Confirm the total price includes hardware. Ask for the specific hardware brand, model, and ANSI grade. For emergency lockouts: call 2-3 companies quickly and take whoever quotes a fair rate and can arrive soonest. Avoid any company that will not give a price before arrival.

Pay more when: (1) You need Grade 1 hardware installed correctly — a higher quote that includes quality hardware is a better value than a low quote with Grade 3 hardware. (2) You need a master key system — cheap keying errors create safety and liability issues. (3) Your property has commercial-grade security requirements — code compliance is not optional. (4) You have a high-security lock brand (Medeco, Abloy, Mul-T-Lock) — these require specialized training to service correctly.

A standard residential lockout takes 15-45 minutes from technician arrival. Simple spring-latch locks: 5-15 minutes. Standard pin-tumbler deadbolts: 15-30 minutes. High-security locks (Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, ASSA): 30-60 minutes or may require drilling. Vehicle lockouts: 10-25 minutes for most cars, longer for older or exotic vehicles.

You have options. If work has not started: refuse, request an itemized written quote, or ask them to leave. If work has started and the price changed without your prior agreement, you may dispute the charge based on the original quote. Document everything — the original quoted price, the inflated price, the reasons given. If you paid by card, you can dispute within 60 days. File a complaint with the FTC (reportfraud.ftc.gov) and your state licensing board if the locksmith is in a licensed state.